July 29-30, 2007
Durango, Colorado
Lightner Creek Campground

Arrived in Durango, Colorado after a ride over Wolf Creek Pass, which is about 10,000 feet. On the way up, the last 5 miles or so were a first gear, gas gulping, uphill climb. Visible in the rear view mirror were nickels, dimes, quarters and finally, dollar bills blowing out the exhaust. Fuel consumption was less than 2 mpg on this climb. Coasted downhill on the other side in second gear most of the way, which continued to suck the petrol. Exiting South Fork, we noted several nice looking RV parks on the way to the pass.
We soon noted that Durango gas was about $3.33 for ‘unleaded plus’, which is the 87 octane mix that we call ‘regular’ in California. ‘Regular’, in the Rocky Mountain states is usually 85 or 85.5 octane, better known as ‘tractor gas’. They ‘low ball’ the price on the signs to suck you in, only to shock you with a ‘regular plus’ price that is about 10-20 cents higher.

Our creekside villa here is the Lightner Creek Campground, about 2 miles north of Hwy 160, and west of Durango. I think if I walk about 60 feet to the 8 foot wide creek and kneel down next to it, I might hear the hint of a relaxing creek gurgle. Janice loves the sound of running water. I tried.

Durango appears to be a bustling town, supported by the tourists who flock here to ride the Durango-Silverton steam train. Yep, we’ll be doing that Tuesday, assuming we can ‘time’ Carly’s digestive tract. She’ll be ‘home alone’ for about 8 hours. Going to see the Indian ruins in Mesa Verde tomorrow.

FLASH!! Big news last night. Son, Jason called to announce his betrothal to gal-pal Lori. Wedding in September in Las Vegas!

July 30, 2007

Mesa Verde National Park

Carly accompanied us in the CRV to Mesa Verde, some 35 miles distant from our camp. We purchased a couple of Cliff Palace tour tickets, thinking Carly could repose in the car. However, as tour time approached, the sun broke through the clouds and it was evident that if we left her, that PETA or the SPCA would nab us for heat torture. So, Janice, having previously declared herself as ‘not a fan of Indian ruins’ was relegated to dog-sitting duties. Carly provided surrogate petting opportunities for travelers who had left their pooches at home.

The ranger-led tour of the Cliff Palace was excellent. These ruins were very similar to those we viewed near Silver City, NM in March, just on a larger scale.

After the tour, we finished the driving loop and headed back to Durango under increasingly darkening skies. Thunderclaps (very close by) and pounding rain created some excitement after we entered the rig.

We found a couple in the park (originally from Sacramento) who provide dog-walking services for train riders, so our fears about Carly's intestinal rhythm have been alleviated. We will ride the rails with a clear conscience.

You can review some of the sights of Mesa Verde by clicking here. Be patient, it'll take some time to load. Turn on the audio.

July 27-28, 2007

San Luis State Park

and South Fork, CO

As we headed from the Canon City area, it was our plan to stay near Sand Dunes Nat’l Park for a couple days. A nearby state park (San Luis Lake) had electricity in their spaces and was 10 or so miles from the dunes. The drive up the Arkansas River was beautiful, but caused a few Mexico highway flashbacks as oil tanker trucks came around the bend heading our way. It was a heckuva lot easier in Mexico just following the rig in front of us. We checked in, set up camp among the sagebrush and sand and then realized that our campsite was reserved for the next 2 nights. If we wanted to stay, it meant moving the next morning.

In the afternoon a cooling thunderstorm kept the temperatures down, so we cruised into the park to look at the dunes in the evening. Very impressive—the highest sand dunes in North America.

Returning to camp, we had hoped for a campfire, since we have been dragging firewood with us from Silver Falls, Oregon. However, a trickle turned into another downpour, so we took cover in the rig.

In the morning, we pondered our next move. The sun was already glowing hot---too late to hike in the dunes until evening, and then only if the weatherman cooperated. Since we had to pack up the rig to move, we decided to just move on down the road, and headed to highway 160, going west to South Fork, where the Rio Grande passes through town. We arrived at South Fork RV Park, where we learned this evening that the residents fired the last manager a few days ago and are now running the place themselves. There is a core group of summer returnees here (many escaping the heat in Texas), very friendly –even to us Californians. If we stay here more than a day, I’m afraid we’ll pick up the Texas twang. ‘Cain’t hardly believe I said that!

A day trip up the nearby Silver Thread highway took us to Creede, about 30 miles distant. Beautiful drive up the river canyon. (Make a note to checkout the USFS Palisades campground—rigs parked along the riverbank.) Towering haystack cliffs that I intended to photograph on the way back---but pouring rain left the canvas blank. Creede was a town suckling on the expenditures of summer visitors. At 8800 feet, there isn’t a whole lot of winter activity except snow-plowing. We contributed a few bucks for some ice cream cones just before the rain started. I am longing for the Umpqua ice cream of Oregon. Colorado has a lot to learn in the ice cream business.

That aside, this is beautiful country---just about the prettiest on the trip (excluding Waterton, Canada). We will return to this area for more detailed exploration.

July 25-26,2007

Manitou Springs to Canon City, Colorado.

Royal View RV Park

Our final day in Manitou Springs was a peak experience. Pikes Peak, that is. We hopped the cog railroad and 9 miles and an hour and a half later, we were on top---14,110 feet. No problem breathing for us, likely because we have been at 5000-7500 feet for the past several weeks. Amazingly, the cog was completed in 1889, with the only significant change being a switch to diesel from steam. The views weren’t really spectacular due to hazy/cloudy skies. Later in the day we moseyed to the city park for a farmer’s market and local music. This was thin gruel as such events go, but did enjoy a cold brew there to chase away the 90 degree heat.

On the road today, gassed up at 3.06 per gallon and felt smug as prices increased down the road. Passed through Canon City on our way to destination Royal View RV Park near Royal Gorge, arriving about noon. After lunch, we (including Carly) headed north through the boondocks on Phantom Canyon Road, which is an unpaved former (1892) RR track bed that was used by ore trains. (Little known fact was that the gold rush in this area in the 1880s was bigger than California and Alaska---biggest in the world.) To the side of the road were vacant meadows that once supported populations in the 1000s. If only the hills could talk! We drove through a couple of tunnels—room enough for one train or one car. Many narrow cuts in solid rock were also passable by one vehicle at a time. Fortunately, we avoided the rush hour, encountering perhaps a dozen vehicles in about 40 miles.

A couple of extant burgs, Victor and Cripple Creek marked the turnaround point as skies darkened and began to drip. Very historic turn of the century brick buildings in each town, but Cripple Creek has become a gambling mecca for southern Colorado, with virtually every usable building for several blocks on the main drag housing casinos---of the non-Indian variety. Saw a few folks sitting on benches in front of the casinos with that ‘tapped out’ look. The return trip (once we found the correct road) was an over hill and dale, curving, cows-on-the-road ride through beautiful country. Carly was rolling about in her ‘cage’ for the entire trip, but sleeping through most of it. Old dogs can do that.

After a buffalo burger dinner BBQ’d in cooling winds, we headed to the Royal Gorge bridge, a 1929 construction feat spanning the Arkansas River (1000+ feet below). As a ‘height-wuss’, it wasn’t pleasant walking across the wooden planked roadway/walkway. We had the bridge almost to ourselves, encountering one other couple. Glad we weren’t there earlier in the day with the masses.

July 20-24,2007

Chief Hosa Campground

(Near Denver, CO)

Pikes Peak RV Park

Manitou Springs, CO [Regular blog service has been interrupted by the lack of satellite access at the Chief Hosa Campground. Too many trees. At Pikes Peak, there is shaky wi-fi access.]

The final day at Estes Park found me blazing around the Estes Park Golf Course playing most respectably, a golf ‘glow’ that didn’t last long. Afterwards, we did the main street shopping walk, finishing with a well-earned ice cream cone.

Next, it was on to the Denver area, where we camped at the Chief Hosa Campground, about 10 miles west, conveniently located about 7 miles from the home of Janice’s high school friend Kim Rowley (and hubby Steve Ruskin). The campground dated back to 1918, and was one of the first ‘auto parks’ in the state of Colorado. We didn’t hang out there very much during our Denver stay, using it mainly as a crash-pad, so the convenience factor was a real plus.

Our first day in the area, Janice and Carly had their nails done…at different locations of course. During the evening we traveled to Kim’s for a great BBQ steak dinner. Carly was entertained by RJ, a four-year-old golden retriever who had more energy than Tina Turner. Carly made it clear that she was not into any young dog shenanigans, delivering a couple of well-placed ‘snaps’ in RJ’s direction when he got too rambunctious. Overall, they enjoyed each other.

The next day found me on the golf course again, guests of Kim and Steve at their club, the Hiwan Golf Course. Janice joined as a spectator, hoofing it around the course with us. The weather was great, the scenery beautiful. My game was a bit shaky. This was the most difficult course I had played in awhile (slope 134), and the greens were slippery and slopey. Lotsa dreaded three–putts ballooned my score beyond respectability. There was a silver lining as, late in the game, the demons were finally exorcised from my driver. Hopefully I can remember the 13 different swing thoughts that finally clicked together.

After golf, Janice and I took a short drive through Evergreen and on to the Red Rocks Amphitheater. This natural (red) rock formation was worked over by the CCC in the late 30s, and is now a (if not ‘the’) world class outdoor ‘concert’ arena. All the ‘biggies’ have played here, including the Beatles in 1964. Would love to be there when music is in the air. (Actually, on this day, only Janice went into the facility. I was staying with Carly outside. The next day, Janice and I, sans Carly, saw it together.)

We rejoined Kim and Steve in the evening for a scrumptious BBQ salmon feast, set up perfectly by skillfully blended margaritas. They are the consummate hosts and made our Denver stay a very memorable one. Carly will take a few days to recover from RJ, though.

A day of touring Denver was next. First, the obligatory visit to the state Capitol. First class. Unfortunately, the new Art Museum was closed, so we opted for the Colorado History Museum. Very well done. Even included a photo of the hospital (Fitzsimmons) where I was born many years ago. Hit the library (nice!) for an intenet fix, then walked about the downtown area until our 2 quarters ran out in the parking meter. Finished the day with a visit to Ben and Jen Grafton (Jen is the daughter of another of Janice's h.s. friends) for dinner. We provided pizza; they supplied wine from their cellar in between dealing with a 6-month-old and a 2-year-old. How well we still remember those days!

Our final morning we breakfasted with John and Corky Lopez, veterans of our Great Mexican adventure. Great to see them again before moving down Highway 25 to the Colorado Springs area. (Thanks for breakfast, John!) Carly insisted on visiting Buffalo Bill's Grave before we departed.

En route we stopped at the U.S. Air Force Academy, visiting the spectacular chapel before moving down the road to our destination, Pikes Peak RV Park in Manitou Springs.

Upon arrival, Carly was appropriately fed and walked, then readied for a nap in the rig. We headed out to explore, going south to the Broadmoor Hotel, the most consistent 5-star hotel in America. It was gorgeous, and we tried to fake it like we belonged there, but the 'Cowboy Cafe' logo on the back of my shirt branded me 'el turista'. Bought a magnet and a couple of postcards for $10.50 and headed back to camp.

Enjoyed a nice dinner at the Old Stagecoach Inn, our first dinner out since the cottonood storm in Waterton, Canada almost a month ago. Great ambiance on the deck along the creek and good wine, but the food (Buffalo and prime rib) was just so-so. Enjoyed a nice walk around town. We like this place---not overrun with tourists. Beautiful old homes. A good place to retire if you can handle a bit of snow in the winter.

July 18-19, 2007

Estes Park, CO

Spruce Lake RV Park(just outside Rocky Mountain National Park)

The good, bad and the ugly

We left Rawlins, Wyoming after gassing up at the Flying J, and then on to Colorado. We cruised through country that would aptly be described as “where the deer and the antelope play.” Not good for much else, but such is southeastern Wyoming and northeastern Colorado, my birth-state (Denver, 1946). We high-fived, crossing the state boundary as Colorado is a "new" state for us in our RV journeys. We are up to 42 states now in our RV adventures.

The trip up Thompson River Canyon to Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) was tense. Hardly room for the river and the road through a very rocky canyon. Drove through Estes Park on our way to Spruce Lake RV Park, just on the eastern edge of the town. OK park, except the spaces here are a bit tight. Somehow we got an internet fix through a hole in tree branches, so the monologue continues.

Today was supposed to be a rest day, but we were ready for action, so we headed west on the Trail Ridge Road. This is the signature drive for RMNP. Pretty spectacular at first as we drove at plus 10,000 feet for many miles. (The longest ‘paved’ high altitude road in the world---yes, they all have a ‘hook’.) We topped out at 12,007 feet, Carly snoozing through most of it in the back of the Honda.

After stopping at the Ranger station-gift shop at the top, I was wondering whether Charles Kuralt had ever driven this road before designating the Beartooth Highway (212) the most beautiful in the country in 1979. But then as we headed over to the east side of the mountain, dropping back into the tree zone, it was impossible not to notice the growing presence of dead trees, the victim of drought and pine beetles, aided by warming winter temperatures that no longer are cold enough to freeze eggs and larvae. As we dropped in altitude, it worsened.

We arrived at (Not-so) Grand Lake. Imagine if you would a beautiful lake surrounded by lush pines and towering tree-covered mountains. A tourist mecca, this place has marinas, beaches and a very inviting downtown. At least it did until the pine beetle arrived. Now, it is surrounded by dying, browning trees, a veritable tinderbox ready to be ignited. The word ‘fire’ cannot be spoken in city limits, such is the presence of the haunting conflagration that lurks around it. Don’t buy property here---until after the fire sale. Scary.

We headed back up the mountain, challenged by a pounding thunderstorm. Next, we headed to Bear Lake, another featured gemstone of RMNP. It was an ‘average’ Sierra lake, based on our experience, yet the touristas were crawling all over it.

Estes Park is just ‘over the hill’ from the insect depredation that is laying waste to the east slopes. There is some evidence of beetle damage, but not to the extent of the other side. But the dragon is out there. You can almost hear the grubs munching. Just a matter of time.

Finished the day with a little time at the local driving range. There is room for optimism. May play 18 tomorrow.

July 17, 2007

Western Hills RV Park
Rawlins, Wyoming

On the Way South to Colorado

As we were headed out this morning, we looked over our shoulders to the Tetons. Not-so-Grand this morning as clouds, haze and mist spoiled the view. We weren’t missing anything by movin’ on down the road. We have memories of spectacular view from 4 years ago, so we’ll just have to look at those pictures when we return home.

Heading east on Hwy 26, we approached Dubois ("dew-boys"), one of my favorite towns on the road. The lush green valleys on the east beckoned, and as we left, striated rock formations in red, pink and tan layers provided a rolling backdrop, saying good-bye. This country is as pretty as any we’ve seen.

While in Dubois, we stopped for breakfast at the Cowboy Café. The best since we’ve been on the road. Omelets were done to perfection and hash browns were the way we like’em. Real rye toast and cowboy coffee. (I ordered my ‘Cowgirl Omelet’ quietly lest any of the cowboys in the joint might snicker.) And this town did have real cowboys---real hats, levis and ridin’ in pick ‘em up trucks. And rodeos every Friday night during the summer. This is a place that beckons a longer stay---and someday we’ll do it. Might even play their nine-holer in the hills. This is another place where a property investment would appreciate, I believe. Don’t wait. Just don’t live here in the winter.

We lost about an hour en route to Rawlins due to road repair delays. Plenty of sagebrush along the way after we left Dubois. Little real civilization in between.

Since we have gained a few days on our loose schedule, it meant rearranging camp reservations for our first week in Colorado. Done! This will allow a few extra days in southern Colorado down the road, and will also facilitate a round of golf with Janice's high school friend, Kim Rowley, a single digit handicapper who will beat me like a drum. I've just got to find a driving range! (Kim had a crush on me as a 5th grader when we both attended Parkmead Elementary School in Walnut Creek. Apparently I, a 6th grader, snubbed her---but that's another story.)

July 15-16, 2007

The Beartooth Highway
(click on this for some interesting info)
July 15, 2007


Northeast of Yellowstone Park is a highway that Charles Kuralt once called “the most beautiful in America.” Stretching 60 plus miles from Cooke City to Red Lodge, Montana, it has intrigued me since reading about it as we planned this trip.

Is this a road that we should drive with the motorhome? I queried various on-line RV forums and the answers were mixed.. There were steep grades up and down—brake burners for sure. Hairpin switchback turns. A grade school-high school chum was the mayor of Red Lodge---I asked him. His response was lukewarm, but the nail in the coffin was that his schedules and ours conflicted, and he would be away until a couple days after we left the area. We nixed the RV assault on the Beartooth and took another route (Hwy 89) into Yellowstone, stopping short in Gardiner, MT.
Nevertheless, the Beartooth beckoned, so we headed out in the CRV for a day trip. 40 miles to get to the start, and then 60 miles more—one way. These mountain miles are slow miles, especially when vistas appear mile after mile that pull you to the side of the road to gawk or take a picture. Critters appear—buffalo, coyote, elk, and white-tailed deer. Wildflowers guard the roadside. Many motorcyclists were enjoying the drive---I think this is one of their 'merit badge' routes.


It is a great drive—both ways, with a buffalo pastrami sandwich for lunch at the turn around in Red Lodge. Now Red Lodge is a town with a siren’s song during the summer. Vital and historic. You can sense the property values rising as you sip iced tea, pushed upwards by newcomers laden with yuppie cash. Just don’t think about winters—the snow drifts and sub-freezing temps. But it has the feel of a very special place. My friend is a a fortunate person to be rooted in this place. Buy property here. You can't lose.

After 9 hours and 200 miles on the road, we returned. Carly, who had done the drive with us, was hungry, and the frozen chicken breasts we took out to thaw in the morning were now lukewarm. I’ll pass on the salmonella, but we nuked ‘em for Carly, who will have haute’ cuisine for a few days.

The final verdict on the Beartooth is that only a fool would take an RV on it (There were several such fools on the road.) Pavement is fine, but steep grades up and down would wear hard on the rig. Few of the pull-over sites (many) would accommodate anything larger than a car, so many vistas would simply be missed. One realistically could not drive this and look at all of the great views without going off the road or smacking an oncoming vehicle. Any passengers in the rig would likely get car sick or suffer permanent sphincter damage.

Enjoy the video---it doesn’t do the scenery justice (lighting wasn't optimum), but then, I don’t take this photography stuff too seriously. Click here—and turn on the audio. It'll take a while to load.

July 16, 2007
Outside Grand Tetons NP
Grand Teton RV Resort

We cruised through Yellowstone on Hwy 89 early in the a.m. to avoid looky-loos.
Unhooked the toad at West Thumb and drove up to Bridge Bay. Nice campground there.
Finished today's drive at Grand Teton RV Resort which is soaking us nearly $50 for one night. Nothing else is available

We will be going into the park after dinner when lighting is better for pics and critters are roaming the range.

July 13-14, 2007
Rocky Mountain RV Park

Gardiner, MT
On the north boundary
of Yellowstone Park

We blazed out of Dick’s RV park in Great Falls, gassing up at the local Flying J for 62 gallons of petrol. Ouch! Wasn’t hard to leave Dick’s, perhaps the noisiest RV park we have ever stayed in .He warned us when we called, saying, "Your space backs up against the street, but it’ll settle down by 8 pm." Until about 11 pm it was auto alley, and beginning at 6 am in the morning, it sounded like the pits at the Indy 500.

Heading towards Yellowstone, we attempted to make reservations in West Yellowstone. "Sold out," Changed course to Gardiner, MT on the north border of the park where we got the last space. Nothing plush, but it’s got full hook-ups and a good satellite fix for the internet. En route, we cruised along the Missouri River, watching fishermen (and women, I think) thrashing the water from driftboats. These are premium trout waters in beautiful settings..

Many new upscale ‘dwellings’ under construction, likely from wealthy out-of-staters who are driving up land prices here, killing the ranches and farms. Some beautiful settings for these rich folk along rivers and hanging on the sides of mountains. They might as well have written "Yuppie!”on them.

During the night a thunderstorm moved in bringing rain and thunder in the morning. It was overcast and soggy as we headed into the park. Carly remained behind, due to the lack of shade in Yellowstone and the restrictions regarding dogs in national parks. She was woofing as we left the rig, and was woofing when we returned. Unknown what was going on during the intervening 7 hours we were away. Does a woofing dog make noise in the forest if you aren't there to hear it??

Yellowstone is not a place to visit during the summer on a weekend. Looky-loos slowed the pace on the road to about 20 mph, and the siting of a living critter (like a bull elk) simply brought the pack to a halt. Fumaroles venting in the distance had the folks clicking the cameras. If you’ve seen one fumarole, you’ve seen ‘em all. A couple of waterfalls wowed the crowds, but Janice and I have seen so many waterfalls on this trip (many spectacular!), so we passed on several today. Water can only fall off a cliff in so many ways, huh?


We were on a mission to meet another Mexico caravan couple who we had been tracking via the internet we both approached Yellowstone from different directions, hopeful for a connection. As luck would have it, they arrived to join us just as Old Faithful was erupting. It was fun catching up on road tips with Jerry and Zana, full-timers originally from Modesto. They are planning an Alaskan RV trip next May for a couple months, and it sounds so good, we might just tag along. We enjoyed a nice lunch together in the Old Faithful Inn, then we were treated to another eruption, post lunch, joining hundreds of geyser watchers. (Click here to see). We figured we were owed a good show, as the last time we were here two years ago, we missed the eruption by a few minutes and had to settle for plumes of steam.

Speaking of our last visit, it was nice to see many of the charred spars from the 1988 fire falling on the ground as weather and wind knocked down over 50% of them. Sprouting up are a thicket of trees in the 10-15 foot range. Not much growth for 19 years, but the growing season is short here. Looks much better.

July 9-10-11-12, 2007

Rafter’s 6 Ranch
Between Banff and Calgary
And
Dick’s RV Park, Great Falls, MT.

Rafter's 6 Ranch was our home for two plus days. We stopped at the Canadian Olympic Park on the way. It is a fabulous facility with ski jumps, luge tracks, etc. This should have been an ‘official’ part of the tour itinerary. While there, we were charmed by Michael, a 13 year old museum guide, who epitomizes what we have come to appreciate in Canadian youth. They are articulate, friendly, and have received a solid education. We noted in Calgary the various trades training schools for their youth. America---pay attention.

We are still re-living the thrills of the Stampede's ‘Grandstand Show’, an extravaganza that would have shamed Cecil B. DeMille. Several hundred local volunteer singers and dancers complimented a few professionals. Costumes and lighting were dazzling, and the fireworks that were interwoven with the ‘musical’, were world class. Stupendous. Motorcycles jumped from ramp to ramp across the giant stage, acrobats twirled from a suspended ribbon. It was all there---‘the Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth’ lived up to its billing.

Impressively, the stage was wheeled in and assembled after 2 hours of chuckwagon races around the race track. These ‘chucks’ are big- time with the Canadians. It took about 45 minutes to assemble and then the fun began. Many of the participants were Calgary youth. (It was explained to me by a Calgarian that the reason Calgary was awarded the 1988 Olympics was because of the demonstrated civic volunteerism as evidenced by the Calgary Stampede.) Our seats were perfect---center stage above the stage. Just can’t say enough about this show. It is reason enough by itself to hop on a plane and come to Calgary, a city that knows what it is doing.

We raced the crowds from the show to get to the C-Train and made it back to camp at 12:20 a.m., the first to arrive. We ‘molly-whopped’ our way through the crowd (a term used by a talkative—probably high—gent on the C-Train to describe a thrashing he gave his ‘best pal.’)

On schedule at Rafter 6 was a ‘white water’ rafting adventure. This optional gig wasn’t cheap, but the ride (with ‘on the water’ time lasting about 45 minutes) was a bust. A rip-off. The bus-ride to launch point and the subsequent safety and instructional lecture took about an hour and a half. This was cold water, actually glacial run-off, so we were provided wet-suits. One of the more entertaining sights was a rather large couple assisting each other getting into their wet suits. Reminded me of trying to cram a large sleeping bag into a stuff-sack.

In the evening, the owner of the ranch ‘held court’ as we sat around a smoking campfire (2 hours before the sun went down). To be mild, this guy was ‘full of himself’ and had difficulty controlling the horse he rode in on, which he had borrowed from his son. He finally dismounted, and at one point the horse knocked him down. One of the rally leaders commented, “I owe that horse $20 for that.” I'd have chipped in a few bucks.

The last day featured a 10 hour bus tour to Lake Louise and Banff. One of the leaders stayed behind and dog-sat, which allowed us some piece of mind. At least Carly would get a potty break during the day. Our tour took us through spectacular mountains, a drive around Banff (which is having major road work done in the downtown area), and lunch at the Hotel at Lake Louise. This was no ordinary lunch, but a pig-fest on some of the most succulent chow in Canada. This is a Fairmont hotel, so the quality standards are high. I had 2 plates of salad, including smoked salmon, crab-legs, and calamari before ‘one-plating’ the main dishes, which featured roast pork. Initially, Janice and I were going to share a dessert plate, but since we were well over the max calorie limit anyway, we filled solo dessert plates with scrumptious goodies.

Next was a stop at Lake Moraine, beautiful but crawling with tourists, then a final visit to Takakkaw Falls in nearby Yoho Nat’l Park, reached by a windy road that the 46 foot bus had to back up through a hairpin turn in order to continue. Grand adventure. It was a long day, but a wonderful end to our Calgary Stampede adventure. Our tour-guide/ bus driver was exceptional. Back at camp, we skipped dinner, and a final campfire featured a cowboy-guitarist singer and his banjo buddy. We crawled to bed at 9.

Up early for a ranch breakfast of carefully rationed flapjacks, bacon and sausage, we were on the road to Great Falls, MT by 8:45. It was a 375 mile drive, mostly boring through prairieland/farmland. The border crossing took ½ hour, and was unremarkable.

Arrived at Great Falls about 4:30 and have been doing wash ever since. Tomorrow we will do another 275 to get to Yellowstone. Nothing to see in this part of Montana. The gas tank is on ‘E’ so the fill up in the morning at the Flying J should set a new record $$$.

Final thoughts on the Calgary Stampede Rally. Well organized, but too many people (about 130) for us. On the average, these folks were 5-10 years older than our Mexican Tour group. We are grateful to our Mexico Wagonmasters Larry and Evelyn, who took good care of us here as well, and we are thankful that Kaye and Dee Kimberlin, Mexico tour pals, were participants. We shared a lot of fun together at the Stampede, riding the C Train and toasting the late sunsets. Happy trails, you two!

We've turned in our suggestions about how to tweak this event, but the leaders are already aware of the very few weak-spots. This is a winner! Would we go again? I'd do just about anything to see another Grandstand Show at the Stampede. Ya-Hoo!

July 8-9, 2007
Still at Calgary

We spent the morning & afternoon of the 8th at Heritage Park, primarily a collection turn of the century old wooden buildings within a theme park circled by its own railroad. (click to view) I suppose for fans of Alberta history, it would be interesting, but the best part for me was the bus-ride back to our camp. Won't be back to this place, soon. Should have gone to the Zoo. (Camel photo by Kaye Kimberlin)

After a great dinner at the Red and White Club at McMahon Stadium (and entertainment by Miss Molly), the weather was very mild. By 10:30 p.m., when Carly had ‘last call’ it was a warm 70+, no wind. The nicest it had been all day. By 3 a.m., the wind was howling outside and by 7, rain was spattering. Chilly. It was going to be a miserable day.

But Calgary weather is schizophrenic, as we are finding out. Dressing warmly for our 9 a.m. bus-ride to the Calgary Tower for breakfast, the wind soon abated as we sat in a booth atop the tower, watching the city slowly turn underneath us (or, more accurately, we were turning above the city). Finishing breakfast, we headed back to the Stampede grounds on the C-Train.

We entered the gizmo market again, intent on making a few purchases. One of our purchases was a PVA Blue mop---which can do miracle-work on dirty or wet floors. The same pitch-man was there as had been there a few nights ago. We had him run through the entire dump-the-dirty-water-on-the-floor-and-mop-it up presentation. It was soon obvious that his first few days in Calgary had already presented him with a new challenge---some sort of skin disorder, possibly caused by where he was sleeping, who (or what) he was sleeping with, or , perhaps the inablity to locate a laundromat.

The symptoms of his new found affliction caused him to itch various parts of his body as he was making his spiel, rubbing vigorously about his buttocks (or ‘bum’ as they say in Canuck-land) , and then his crotch and his legs, then back to his buttocks. It was amazing how he could manipulate the mop and scratch where-it-needed-to-be-scratched at the same time. After purchasing our mops, we slunk away. This was not a person one would want to shake hands with.

We purchased a few other gizmo-related articles and then made our first video (click here for an excerpt). Now this was throwing away $20 for sure, but it’s the closest we’ll come to making American Idol.

We returned to camp to rest up, waiting for the grand extravaganza finish to our Calgary stay this evening, back to the Stampede grounds.

July 5-6-7, 2007
Still in Calgary

Yah---Hooo!

That’s the word in Calgary for the next 10 days during the Stampede. The whole city is really into it.

After our first night, the local chamber of commerce representative who narrated (zzzzz!) our city bus trip generously provided us with tickets to the minor league baseball game at the stadium next door to the football stadium---at least that’s what we thought. As 8 pm approached, there was no crowd noise or sounds from the PA system so I looked on the internet, only to discover that the team was ‘on the road.’ A closer review of the tickets revealed they were for a private Stampede party at one of the ‘hot clubs’ downtown---the Coyote Club. Hence the apparent intent of our donor's query as he gave us the tickets: “Tell me how they play.” We opted out of the opportunity. Some things in cool Calgary are just too hot! I’m sure our son, Jason would have enjoyed the action, though.

Yesterday was the Stampede Parade, a rump-numbing (or 'bum-numbing' as they say here) procession of four- footed and four-wheeled entries, plus numerous marching bands, most of them exceptional. The weather was perfect, unlike the sweltering (90+) day before which no doubt would have sent a few carcasses to the glue factory. We had great seats, but a 2 ½ hour parade wore through the minimal natural padding I have on the back-side.

A great parade nonetheless. No flowers on these floats, as the weather is a bit unpredictable (and often soggy) during parade week. Many were made out of a plastic-like material like a unwatered chia-pet head. The pooper scoopers (giant street cleaners) were kept quite busy, cleaning the parade route at frequent intervals, providing a wonderful aroma of wet horse-shit as they passed.

The parade was followed by lunch at a Chinese restaurant about 10 blocks from the parade route. I had a craving for Chinese food, and figured that most parade-goers wouldn’t hump the distance for lunch. We were one of few westerners in our restaurant of choice and enjoyed some great food with Mexico tour pals Kaye and Dee.

A fortuitous reading of the local paper revealed a wine bonanza at one of the local liquor stores---decent wine at under $10 per bottle, so Kaye and I made a mercy mission to to the ‘OK Liquor Store’ to replenish supplies. The clerk assured us that we would not suffer visual damage drinking these grape products—primarily from Austrailia.

I spilled my morning cup of coffee (the whole thing!) on the couch. Feverish activity followed to prevent staining, but the place smells like Starbucks. Still more work to do on the carpet.

Today’s major activity was the Stampede Rodeo, supposedly second-best only to the World Rodeo Finals in Las Vegas. We had great seats, and it was a great rodeo. These cowboys must have been kicked in the head at an early age to subject their bodies to such bone crushing activities as bare-back and saddle-back bronc riding and the ultimate vasectomy experience---bull riding. My sister---the one who touted Corbett Canyon in the box to us ---is a fanatical bull-riding fan.

Prior to the rodeo we finessed our way into the international agricultural visitors center (hey, the US is ‘foreign,’ right?) where we were given a nice commemorative pin and a free drink. I don’t think we fooled anybody, though. They had us pegged as city slickers at the door, but hosted us nonetheless.

Leaving the grounds, we hopped on the C-Train to get back to camp to check on Carly. We jumped on the wrong train, and were headed south to nowhere at a fast pace before we realized our mistake a couple of stations down the line. Caught a northbound and breezed home. Carly was sleeping on the couch, apparently enjoying a coffee buzz off of the drying cushion.

Had thought about returning the Stampede tonight, but it looks like a take-it-easy evening instead. Too crowded anyways.

Calgary’s C-Train is a light rail system that nicely supplements their well-designed freeways. Takes us about 5 minutes to walk to the station next to ‘camp’ and then it’s about a 10 minute ride downtown, to an additional 10 minutes to the Stampede grounds. This is a wonderful city with miles and miles of walking/biking trails (probably good for cross-country skiing, too). It just passed the million population mark. Housing appreciated 47% in the last year! This is a boom caused by the trickle down from the successes of the petroleum companies in the province. There are ‘help wanted’ signs throughout the city.

And here's today's final look (video) at the Stampede. If you object to nursing piglets, tune out.

But Julie and Jason ---this is for you. Remember those 4-H piggies?

July 4-5, 2007
Happy Fourth of July
In the parking lot of McMahon Stadium, Calgary,AB

We arrived ay our Stampede ‘home’ (for the next week) at 10:30 a.m., fueling en route at a Safeway service station. Paid 1.025 per litre, which calculates to about $3.95 per gallon. Spent $182.00. Yipes! And worse than that, it’s tough to find a bottle of wine that won’t blind you for under $10.00 (plus 10% tax). Bring back those Mexican margaritas!

Our camp is in the parking lot of the pro-football (CFL-Calgary Stampeders) stadium. Hope to get a good picture to share, but it means getting access to the stadium. (Got it. Look here)
Heat wave today (90 degrees, but things should moderate (and get drippy) over the next couple days.

Good group dinner last night. We were sworn in as honorary Calgarians in an apparent effort to get us to buy white hats at $18.00/per. Since this will be the only time we will wear such hats, we will look for some made in China (or India) knockoffs at $10, or I’ll just go with my Mexico hat. What’s the difference between a cowboy and a vaquero, anyways?

Had a free morning today, so I snuck over to the Shaganappi Golf Course and played 9 with three Canucks I met at the course. Good chaps…so-so game. Driver is still kaput.

This afternoon features a 2 hour city tour bus-ride, followed by root-beer floats, followed by a social hour. I may be drinking wine out of a thimble.

July 3, 2007
Pine Creek , day 3

Going to Drumheller, AB

Janice is temporarily through with follow-up edits, so I am hoping for a little more computer access. For the thousands of hours she has dedicated to her Oregon book, it is apparent that she is not doing it for the money. But she is doing it well.

Since we had a day to kill before going to our Stampede site tomorrow, we took a day trip to Drumheller, some 2 hours northeast. It is the dinosaur capital of North America, if not the world. Their Royal Terrell Museum has one of the largest collections of dinosaur skeletons which are displayed very vividly, whether land, sea or air creatures. (Janice, who declared herself “not into paleontology,” remained in a shaded area of the parking lot with Carly, working on the lap-top while I toured the museum. Now is that nuts?? BTW, this is one of the top museums for me, but then, I’ve liked paleontology since the 4th grade when my teacher, Miss Michaels, brought some fossils to class. She was a ‘fox’, but that’s another story….

On every block in the town there are dinosaur replicas, including T-Rex, at 60 feet, the largest in the world. Look closely and you can see Carly between the toes. In the next photo, that’s me after making a $3.00 donation to climb the stairs and stick my head out the mouth. If only my kids could have seen me mugging up there!

The rolling countryside was beautiful, alternating greens of young wheat with yellow mustard fields. These suddenly gave way to Horseshoe Canyon, a collection of formations called hoodoos. Drumheller is surrounded by such formations, which are rich with fossil deposits.

Tried to find a Supercuts for Janice, who is unshorn since the trip began (hence ‘the hat’?), but all shops today were crawling with people. My personal solution was to buy a haircutting kit at Costco a week or so ago. This is perhaps the best $19.99 investment I will ever make. Just put that ¼” attachment on and buzz it! I’m well over issues of vanity, as you might have noticed. (When you give up the ‘comb-over’ at age 39, you know you have lost the battle of baldness.) Barber Ray in Sacramento may never see me again, thus missing out on my semi-monthly contribution of $12.00 to his IRA to polish my bald pate. Janice has declined my offer to shear her with the Costco cutter.

Carly scored a new bed, her old one getting a bit road-weary. Gotta keep the old girl comfy.

Looking forward to meeting the new group of folks tomorrow at the Stampede camp and celebrating the 4th of July with fellow Americans.