July 18-19, 2007

Estes Park, CO

Spruce Lake RV Park(just outside Rocky Mountain National Park)

The good, bad and the ugly

We left Rawlins, Wyoming after gassing up at the Flying J, and then on to Colorado. We cruised through country that would aptly be described as “where the deer and the antelope play.” Not good for much else, but such is southeastern Wyoming and northeastern Colorado, my birth-state (Denver, 1946). We high-fived, crossing the state boundary as Colorado is a "new" state for us in our RV journeys. We are up to 42 states now in our RV adventures.

The trip up Thompson River Canyon to Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) was tense. Hardly room for the river and the road through a very rocky canyon. Drove through Estes Park on our way to Spruce Lake RV Park, just on the eastern edge of the town. OK park, except the spaces here are a bit tight. Somehow we got an internet fix through a hole in tree branches, so the monologue continues.

Today was supposed to be a rest day, but we were ready for action, so we headed west on the Trail Ridge Road. This is the signature drive for RMNP. Pretty spectacular at first as we drove at plus 10,000 feet for many miles. (The longest ‘paved’ high altitude road in the world---yes, they all have a ‘hook’.) We topped out at 12,007 feet, Carly snoozing through most of it in the back of the Honda.

After stopping at the Ranger station-gift shop at the top, I was wondering whether Charles Kuralt had ever driven this road before designating the Beartooth Highway (212) the most beautiful in the country in 1979. But then as we headed over to the east side of the mountain, dropping back into the tree zone, it was impossible not to notice the growing presence of dead trees, the victim of drought and pine beetles, aided by warming winter temperatures that no longer are cold enough to freeze eggs and larvae. As we dropped in altitude, it worsened.

We arrived at (Not-so) Grand Lake. Imagine if you would a beautiful lake surrounded by lush pines and towering tree-covered mountains. A tourist mecca, this place has marinas, beaches and a very inviting downtown. At least it did until the pine beetle arrived. Now, it is surrounded by dying, browning trees, a veritable tinderbox ready to be ignited. The word ‘fire’ cannot be spoken in city limits, such is the presence of the haunting conflagration that lurks around it. Don’t buy property here---until after the fire sale. Scary.

We headed back up the mountain, challenged by a pounding thunderstorm. Next, we headed to Bear Lake, another featured gemstone of RMNP. It was an ‘average’ Sierra lake, based on our experience, yet the touristas were crawling all over it.

Estes Park is just ‘over the hill’ from the insect depredation that is laying waste to the east slopes. There is some evidence of beetle damage, but not to the extent of the other side. But the dragon is out there. You can almost hear the grubs munching. Just a matter of time.

Finished the day with a little time at the local driving range. There is room for optimism. May play 18 tomorrow.