March 15, 2007
Creel, MX (map)


On the Rails

Our day began with a bang, or more precisely the sound of a rumbling locomotive passing us by. It was shortly after 4:30 a.m. In a few minutes the process of putting together the train began with a series of clunks and jolts, which continued for about an hour. We fired up the generator to get the heater going and start the coffee pot. At 7 a.m., we were on the move.
I prepared bacon and eggs on the rails like a good Pullman chef, sans white hat.

We viewed the countryside as it semi-crawled by at 10-20 mph.



The views on this leg were interesting and unique, but not spectacular. Flatland orchards soon gave way to more desolate grassfield with a few skinny cattle prowling for food. Unknown where they get water. On turns, our caravan snaked around the bend. Quite a sight to see. We are about a third of the way from the front.

We ventured outside for awhile and stood at the rear of our flatcar, moving about gingerly as the occasional jolts and bumps rolled beneath us.

Some of the views:

A farmer leveling his fresh-plowed field with a large log pulled by 2 well-trained horses.
A woman washing her clothes on a flat rock along a river.
People on horseback, or on foot, headed down well-worn trails going to who knows where.
Towns a mixture of shacks and simple adobe dwellings.
People waving back to us as we passed, especially the kids who gathered along the tracks. We felt like movie stars.
Shanty homes decades old with pointy-roofed plastic outhouses in the front yard.
Tilled fields with no tractors in sight. They will not be planted for another month.

Soon we began to leave the plains and enter pine forests. Pine trees with needles almost a foot long (they are used for basket-making).

About noon, after passing through a couple small towns we pulled onto a siding in the middle of Creel, a tourist mecca for exploring the Copper Canyon.

After a white bread, cheese and baloney sandwich at a local restaurant we hopped on the tour bus for a cruise through the hinterlands. This was a real Mexican bus with leg room designed for those 5’6” or less. At the various stops, local natives peddled their baskets, beads, etc. As we approached one such site, a whirlwind appeared and sucked baskets, blankets, and beads into the air, scattering them over a one block area. No doubt the locals saw this as a visit from el diablo. Being good travelers, we got off the bus and helped gather the goods. No discount offered. Nice gringos, this group.

The final visit was to a Tamahumara Indian enclave in some caves. It really felt like a “tourist trap”—really just a spot to peddle the goods. We bought a basket anyway.

Finally returned to town and did some shopping (found a magnet!) before returning to the rig for a short siesta. There was a margarita hour at 5:30 before the 6:30 dinner. This dinner was apparently a diet plate, as it was slim pickin’s chicken and rice. Good flan for dessert, though. Walked around downtown with some of the group and then back to the rigs.

Sorted photos which have been piling up. Hope to upload a few today when we stop at Divisadero.