April 13, 2007
Catavina, BajaMex (Map) (map 2)

In the Middle of Nowhere

Catavina is in the sticks, or more properly in Baja, ‘in the cactus.’ The drive here was uneventful, except for about 30+ big rigs that passed us, mostly on-coming. (click here for feature video)

During the lunch break I measured the pavement in front of our rest area. It was 7 feet wide in one direction, and 9 feet in the other direction. (I suspect that in most areas it is 8 feet and 8 feet.) Considering that our rig is over 8 feet wide (without the mirrors—and 10.5 feet with the mirrors), it is understandable why I pucker when encountering a big rig that is 8+ feet wide.

In Catavina, our ‘park’ is a large vacant lot with a couple of trees scattered about. The town, which has about 3 structures, features a very nice hotel, complete with dining room (or as it is written there, a ‘dinning’ room), bar, swimming pool and nicely manicured grounds. More importantly, it appeared to be the first building I have seen in Mexico where everything is finished and nothing is visibly broken. It is one of 'the stops' for whale watchers en route to the coast. However, the hotel is simply a matter of casual interest, as we will be dining in the middle of our vacant lot, with our fellow travelers emptying their refrigerators of the verboten items that would otherwise be snared at the border. Should be some interesting cuisine.

Upon arrival, we took a side trip to see cactus growing. (Yesterday we watched salt ponds evaporate…today it was the cactus growing. I think things may be slowing down.)
One fine specimen, the "Methuselah Cactus," is reputedly over 300 years old. If Mexico could figure out something to do with its non-tequila cactus and its stray dogs, its economy would be booming (more than it is).

Speaking of stray dogs, one can only marvel at the number of flea-ridden, lethargic pooches walking around or simply lying down, siesta-like. The females typically are staggering around, their teats hanging low, grateful for a few minutes away from ‘the kids.’ And based on the waiting line spotted in Guerrero Negro for una fido en caliente, monogamy is not a trait of the Mexican pooches. Mexico is a mutt factory, pure and simple. Remarkably, all appear to be quite docile. They must do their fighting at night, as evidenced by chewed ears and bite marks.

Tomorrow, one of the longest drives of the trip, about 250 miles, with the last stretch reputed to be one that will ‘wake you up.’ California, keep the night light burning. We are on the way!